以前高中念的是理組,很自然的,一些教文科的「問題老師」(別以為只有「問題學生」),就被丟到我們理組班。我們的歷史老師,就是女中「三怪」之一。


 


怪在哪裡?比方說,期中考的選擇題,他會出類似的題目:


 


 


 


課本裡的宋徽宗畫像,你覺得:


 


1. 陰險狡詐           2. 慈眉善目           3. 軟弱無能           4. 活潑可愛


 


碰到這種題目,別班當然都當送分題不計分,唯獨我們班,怪獸老師會堅持他的答案,所以,經常,我的歷史都是低空飛過。

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今年台北電影節  只看了兩部片
"新娘快跑"和"天堂此時"
都是巴勒斯坦電影
(是的 在百廢待舉的那塊土地上
還是有個叫"巴勒斯坦電影基金會"的機構
同時也是"新娘快跑"的製作公司)
 
天堂此時("Paradise Now")的DVD其實買了兩年了
為什麼有DVD還要進電影院看?
說來好笑  因為當初想都沒想  就在阿嬤爽下單
完全沒想到美國是2區的片  台灣根本不能看...


 
兩部片看完的共同感覺  就是兩個字:苦笑
不知道是不是長年面對不公不義
電影中的巴勒斯坦人總是有種自我解嘲的性格
 
比方說
"天堂此時"裡的炸彈客第一次任務失敗
回到巴勒斯坦給民兵同志拆炸彈
膠帶黏得他不禁抱怨:你要不要一口氣撕下來?
同志回答:我哪想到會有需要撕下來的一天?


 
"新娘快跑"的故事
全在一天之內發生
正確來說  是清晨到黃昏
17歲的Rana  不想嫁給老爸欽點名單裡的對象
因此得在下午四點  老爸遠走埃及前
找證婚人為她和劇場導演男友證婚
一連串波折  猜疑  爭吵  和敵視後
小倆口婚是結成了--
只是場面頗為突兀
夕陽餘暉  雙方親友在以色列設立的檢查哨前歌舞
最後  影片以巴勒斯坦詩人Mahmoud Darwish的詩--
"The State Of Siege"作為結束
 
已經很久不讀詩了
電影摘錄的只有前幾段
看了之後很感動  把整首詩找了出來
鴻鴻曾將部份翻成中文
不想看英文的可以把找來看


Under Siege
   
 
Here on the slopes of hills, facing the dusk and the cannon of time
Close to the gardens of broken shadows,
We do what prisoners do,
And what the jobless do:
We cultivate hope.

***
A country preparing for dawn. We grow less intelligent
For we closely watch the hour of victory:
No night in our night lit up by the shelling
Our enemies are watchful and light the light for us
In the darkness of cellars.

***
Here there is no "I".
Here Adam remembers the dust of his clay.

***
On the verge of death, he says:
I have no trace left to lose:
Free I am so close to my liberty. My future lies in my own hand.
Soon I shall penetrate my life,
I shall be born free and parentless,
And as my name I shall choose azure letters...

***
You who stand in the doorway, come in,
Drink Arabic coffee with us
And you will sense that you are men like us
You who stand in the doorways of houses
Come out of our morningtimes,
We shall feel reassured to be
Men like you!

***
When the planes disappear, the white, white doves
Fly off and wash the cheeks of heaven
With unbound wings taking radiance back again, taking possession
Of the ether and of play. Higher, higher still, the white, white doves
Fly off. Ah, if only the sky
Were real [a man passing between two bombs said to me].

***
Cypresses behind the soldiers, minarets protecting
The sky from collapse. Behind the hedge of steel
Soldiers piss—under the watchful eye of a tank—
And the autumnal day ends its golden wandering in
A street as wide as a church after Sunday mass...

***
[To a killer] If you had contemplated the victim's face
And thought it through, you would have remembered your mother in the
Gas chamber, you would have been freed from the reason for the rifle
And you would have changed your mind: this is not the way
to find one's identity again.

***
The siege is a waiting period
Waiting on the tilted ladder in the middle of the storm.

***
Alone, we are alone as far down as the sediment
Were it not for the visits of the rainbows.

***
We have brothers behind this expanse.
Excellent brothers. They love us. They watch us and weep.
Then, in secret, they tell each other:
"Ah! if this siege had been declared..." They do not finish their sentence:
"Don't abandon us, don't leave us."

***
Our losses: between two and eight martyrs each day.
And ten wounded.
And twenty homes.
And fifty olive trees...
Added to this the structural flaw that
Will arrive at the poem, the play, and the unfinished canvas.

***
A woman told the cloud: cover my beloved
For my clothing is drenched with his blood.

***
If you are not rain, my love
Be tree
Sated with fertility, be tree
If you are not tree, my love
Be stone
Saturated with humidity, be stone
If you are not stone, my love
Be moon
In the dream of the beloved woman, be moon
[So spoke a woman
to her son at his funeral]

***
Oh watchmen! Are you not weary
Of lying in wait for the light in our salt
And of the incandescence of the rose in our wound
Are you not weary, oh watchmen?

***

A little of this absolute and blue infinity
Would be enough
To lighten the burden of these times
And to cleanse the mire of this place.

***
It is up to the soul to come down from its mount
And on its silken feet walk
By my side, hand in hand, like two longtime
Friends who share the ancient bread
And the antique glass of wine
May we walk this road together
And then our days will take different directions:
I, beyond nature, which in turn
Will choose to squat on a high-up rock.

***
On my rubble the shadow grows green,
And the wolf is dozing on the skin of my goat
He dreams as I do, as the angel does
That life is here...not over there.

***
In the state of siege, time becomes space
Transfixed in its eternity
In the state of siege, space becomes time
That has missed its yesterday and its tomorrow.

***
The martyr encircles me every time I live a new day
And questions me: Where were you? Take every word
You have given me back to the dictionaries
And relieve the sleepers from the echo's buzz.

***
The martyr enlightens me: beyond the expanse
I did not look
For the virgins of immortality for I love life
On earth, amid fig trees and pines,
But I cannot reach it, and then, too, I took aim at it
With my last possession: the blood in the body of azure.

***
The martyr warned me: Do not believe their ululations
Believe my father when, weeping, he looks at my photograph
How did we trade roles, my son, how did you precede me.
I first, I the first one!

***
The martyr encircles me: my place and my crude furniture are all that I have changed.
I put a gazelle on my bed,
And a crescent of moon on my finger
To appease my sorrow.

***
The siege will last in order to convince us we must choose an enslavement that does no harm, in fullest liberty!

***
Resisting means assuring oneself of the heart's health,
The health of the testicles and of your tenacious disease:
The disease of hope.

***
And in what remains of the dawn, I walk toward my exterior
And in what remains of the night, I hear the sound of footsteps inside me.

***
Greetings to the one who shares with me an attention to
The drunkenness of light, the light of the butterfly, in the
Blackness of this tunnel!

***
Greetings to the one who shares my glass with me
In the denseness of a night outflanking the two spaces:
Greetings to my apparition.

***
My friends are always preparing a farewell feast for me,
A soothing grave in the shade of oak trees
A marble epitaph of time
And always I anticipate them at the funeral:
Who then has died...who?

***
Writing is a puppy biting nothingness
Writing wounds without a trace of blood.

***
Our cups of coffee. Birds green trees
In the blue shade, the sun gambols from one wall
To another like a gazelle
The water in the clouds has the unlimited shape of what is left to us
Of the sky. And other things of suspended memories
Reveal that this morning is powerful and splendid,
And that we are the guests of eternity.
 
 

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本來以為松露就該是這樣的味道—
不是很多人用「清香」來形容嗎?
那是,如果你沒吃過新鮮松露的話
 
小說「尋找松露的人」中
把松露形容為一種「牲禮」
在普羅旺斯的傳統中
「松露炒蛋」甚至必須遵照固定的儀式
小說的主人翁卡巴薩
就靠著這樣的儀式催生夢境
與死去的妻子再續前緣
這顆外型醜陋的「黑鑽石」
魔力可見一斑
 
在溫布利亞的鄉間小鎮Bavagna
我吃到了松露炒蛋Frittata al Tartufo
當晚我沒有作夢
(可能是因為義大利人沒有普羅旺斯那套儀式的關係)
可是在享用的那短暫片刻
我確實有作夢的感覺
因為當我清醒過來…
那道菜已經沒了!!


 
怎麼會有一種菌類 味道如此濃郁?
怪不得它要躲在三、四十公分的土壤底下
以躲避山豬的鼻子或松露獵人的木條
還有嗅覺最靈敏的蒼蠅

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台灣片商很偏食(or偏心?)
歐陸電影總是獨鍾法國片(這幾年還有北歐片)
台北電影節或金馬往往一年看不到兩三部義大利片
義大利電影再不景氣  也不至於這麼沒產量啊
像今年在坎城 就有兩部義大利片Il Divo和Gomorra拿下評審團大獎
可是照以往片商的口味來看
我想大概都會被打進"沒賣相"的冷宮裡去吧

"Il Divo"(有人翻成"魅力首相")講的是義大利前總理Andreotti的故事
此人在義大利現代史上頗有爭議
因為他的名字經常與黑手黨掛在一起
但他本人卻從未因為相關告訴遭到定罪

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*第一攤鍋燒意麵照片沒拍到,洪芋頭老店已經是第二攤。三、四站分別是台南兩家冬瓜茶,個人認為進來涼味道比義豐「正」。


雖然我是台南人,可是小時候吃台南小吃,總是坐家裡的車,說來對台南,我也算個路癡。以前家裡常吃民族夜市、沙卡里巴和日本料理,「波麗路」那種日式西餐,我的初體驗就是在沙卡里巴。後來歷經火燒、拆遷,沙卡里巴逐漸沒落,北上唸書後,沒什麼機會回台南,幾次要回頭找小時候吃的店,竟然都已經找不到了。
 
五月底,趁著南下墾丁的機會,我們先到台南準備「溫習」一番,這回有個台南通帶路,規劃好行程表,一張古都地圖貼滿便條紙,我,就負責當司機。
 
我們的美食「壯遊」從下午兩點多一直進行到晚上,不僅達成預期目標,甚至又多吃了幾家不在行程表上的小吃。如果連回家後的半攤宵夜也算進去,我們一共吃了十五攤半!!!

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好像是無關緊要的一篇文章。因為計較半天,也不過是11歐與5.5歐,或160與86克朗的差別。
 
只是,對於一星期內,得來回市區—機場五趟的人來說,省下來的錢,足足可以讓我在台伯河對岸(Trastevere)找家好的館子飽餐一頓。(不好意思,每次都是以食物為換算單位…)
 
話說到過羅馬的人,大概都坐過Leonardo Express李奧那多機場特快車,從達文西國際(或Fiumicino)機場到市區的特米尼(Termini)火車站,只要半小時,每張票11歐。不過大概比較少人知道,從羅馬另一個車站Tiburtina也有區間車(treno regionale),到機場大約45分鐘,雖然多了15分鐘,票價卻只要一半,行車間隔大約每20到半小時一班(車班可上義大利國鐵查詢)。
 
其實許多國際機場,都存在這樣的「一國兩制」,以滿足觀光客與本地人的不同需求—至少在挪威奧斯陸,我確定這招也通:從奧斯陸市區到機場,通常即使青年旅館的人,也會建議你搭直達巴士或火車,因為省事,也是半小時就到機場。不過要知道,挪威可是搭一趟公車要比台灣貴十倍的地方(一張公車票23克朗,快150台幣喔),如果搭乘機場快線,160克朗(約一張小朋友喔)就沒有了。還好,為了服務挪威同胞,NSB(挪威國鐵)還是提供了月月安、不,站站停的慢車。說是慢車,品質還是很好,車程多了十分鐘,價錢硬生生砍一半變成86歐。要查詢班次的話,可直接上NSB的網站,或者直接到售票處拿時刻表。
 
 
這就是我拿省下來的錢(還有找)犒賞自己的最後晚餐:陳年酒醋牛排(La costata all’aceto balsamico)
 
 
 
Da Gildo
地址:Via della Scala, 31/a
電話:+39 06 5800 733
公休:每歐四
(他們的炸朝鮮薊、羅馬名菜saltimbocca也很好吃!)

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不好意思,盜用狄倫叔的電影名,其實,我只是想讓大家看看這次挪威行的遺珠。
 
其實最大顆的遺珠當然是極光,不過,適合觀賞極光的季節是每年10月到隔年3月,我同學在卑爾根住了十年,也不過看過一次極光,因此我已經很釋懷,一切隨緣。
 
我比較遺憾的,是錯過了Preikestolen和Kjeragbolten。

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Kuala Lumpur-Taipei

回台北第三天,感覺還有點錯亂
不是時差問題,我從來沒有時差問題
是一些你以為很熟悉的事
原來短短三個月就可以忘得精光
忘記大門鑰匙應該往左轉還是往右轉
忘記浴室的蓮蓬頭怎麼開
忘記台北公車搭一趟多少錢
 
第一晚半夜醒來
不認得自己的房間
不知道自己是在Perugia、Bergen
還是奧斯陸的Youth Hostel

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(這篇其實是離開Perugia之前寫的,只是後來那幾天忙著收拾打包,一直到今天才有空用挪威同學家的網路上傳...)


3/31是C1考試最後一天,打算考完行李打包就直奔羅馬。因此算算,今天(3/28)也就是我離開Perugia前的最後一個上班日,之前整理好的包裹得在今天寄出去。
 


有了上次耗掉一整個下午的經驗,今天我早早就抱著一大箱包裹,到離家最近的郵局報到。從這裡寄國際包裹是以重量計算:5-10公斤一個價(到台灣約35歐),10-15公斤45歐上下,15-20公斤又是另一個價錢。
 
把包裹往磅秤上一放,14.4公斤,遠比我估計的十公斤超出太多,想想乾脆湊個整數,把身上另外兩本小字典也放了進去,最後結帳:44.18歐。
 

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考試前一個禮拜,平常上班、上學時間都會塞車的路,忽然靜了下來。這會兒才意識到,原來義大利人都去放復活節大假了。(這麼說來,上禮拜天,也就是復活節的前一星期,在路上看到許多拿橄欖樹枝的人從教堂走出來,原來也是復活節的相關活動。)
 
對Perugia的亞洲人來說,復活節意義不大。對外國人大學的學生來說,今年復活節更像是受難日。因為復活節是每年過完春分月圓的第一個禮拜天,往年多半落在四月,今年比較早,剛好卡在考試前。而且Perugia外國人大學堪稱「學界的7-11」,人家放假、我們都不打烊,只有復活節隔天(俗稱小復活節,Pasquetta)的禮拜一放個溫書假意思意思。


 

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